• granada, spain •
Gluten-Free in Granada: A Celiac-Safe Travel Itinerary & Alhambra Guide
Picking up right where we left off on our Seville blog, we hopped on the train and headed to the next stop on our Spain adventure: Granada!
Granada was one of the stops I was most excited about during our whole trip. Between the incredible Moorish history of the Alhambra, the winding cobblestone streets, and all of the unbelievable gluten-free food we got to enjoy, Granada ended up being such a memorable part of our trip.
Traveling with Celiac disease means we always have to put a little extra thought into where and when we're going to eat. Granada gave us plenty of opportunities to enjoy delicious, safe food, but it also reminded us why planning ahead-and carrying backup food from dedicated bakeries - is so crucial.
Here is everything we ate, saw, and learned during our two days in Granada!!!
Day 1: Arrival, Fried Goodies & Downtown Exploration
Arriving in Granada
We arrived in Granada by train in the afternoon after traveling from Seville. From the Granada train station, we took a local bus toward our Airbnb, which was located directly underneath the Alhambra.
The location was incredible, but there was one little catch: because the Airbnb was on a restricted road, the bus couldn't drop us off right at the door. Instead, we had to roll our suitcases straight up the steep cobblestone street! Not exactly the easiest arrival after a long train ride, but the location was unbeatable and once we walked inside, it was completely worth it.
Our Airbnb was amazing and had a breathtaking view of the Alhambra right from our window. Waking up and seeing the Alhambra from our room was definitely one of the highlights of staying there. It felt like we were living dream!!
A Late Lunch at El Piano
After getting settled, we headed out for a very late lunch at El Piano.
And let me tell you... there was SO MUCH UNIQUE fried food! We enjoyed potato croquettes, falafel, fried vegetables, and more. Everything was delicious, and after traveling from Seville, it was exactly what we needed to refuel before spending the afternoon exploring. Because this spot is also vegan and health-focused, I felt like the fried, dense bites we ate were not as heavy in our stomach as usual fried foods.
One of the things we loved most about this meal was getting to enjoy foods that can be so difficult to find safe and gluten-free while traveling, especially quintessential Moorish and Spanish style bites . Having fried food, croquettes, and falafel without worrying about shared fryers was such an unexpected treat!
Wandering into Candy’s Cafe
One of the biggest highlights of our time in Granada (food wise at least) was accidentally stumbling across Candy’s Cafe. Candy’s Cafe is truly a dedicated gluten free heaven, filled with some of the most gf delicious treats. Hot take, but while Chok has incredible flakey croissants, Candy’s Cafe was the real winner. The croissant was large and reasonably priced - it was also delicious! I enjoyed this unexpected sweet treat before our next wanders.
Exploring Downtown Granada & The Alcaicería
After lunch, we headed out to explore downtown Granada on foot. We spent the afternoon wandering up and down the steep streets, taking in the city and exploring local shops and markets - a good souvenir stroll in a historic and gorgeous place is our favorite!!!
One of our stops was the Alcaicería, Granada's historic Moorish market district. The narrow streets and collection of vibrant, artisan shops made it such a fun place to wander through and get lost in!
Eventually, we stopped to enjoy some of the delicious gluten-free croissants we had packed from Chok back in Seville!
This was one of our favorite gluten-free travel strategies throughout our entire Spain trip: when we found a dedicated bakery we loved and knew we could safely eat, we bought extra treats to take with us for the road. Having food from Chok with us meant we had something safe and delicious to snack on whenever we needed a quick pick-me-up while exploring Granada.
Dinner at La Nonna Carmella
For dinner, we headed to La Nonna Carmella, where we had a truly incredible meal.
We ordered a gluten-free pizza with jamón, steak served with fried potatoes, and a Nutella strawberry dessert pizza (WOW!)! After a full day of traveling and walking around Granada, it was the perfect way to wrap up our first day. The food was delicious, the space felt so high end, the server made was excellent, and - a true test of a celiac’s approval - the bathroom was so nice LOL!
Day 2: Historic Baths, The Hike Up & The Alhambra
Breakfast at Chok (Again!) with “Lunch” to go:
The next morning, we woke up early and grabbed a quick breakfast from Chok. I must admit… and this is important for the next part of the story… that the croissants were delicious but pretty small. So when we ordered extra for “lunch” as we walked around the Alhambra, it really didn't do the trick. Transparently, while the croissants were incredibly flaky, they were expensive for the size. Would I get it again? Absolutely. Would I expect this to be “lunch” for a full day of exploring a historical site? Never again! Speaking of gluten free croissants, more on the best bang for your buck there later…
El Bañuelo
Our tour of the Alhambra wasn't until noon, so we had some time to explore the area around our Airbnb before beginning our trek up toward one of Spain's most famous landmarks.
Before heading to the Alhambra, we stopped at El Bañuelo, an ancient bathhouse from the Moorish period. It was a really interesting stop and gave us another glimpse into Granada's Moorish history before we made our way toward the main event.
The Walk to the Alhambra
We knew the Alhambra was located up on the hill. What we weren't prepared for was just how much uphill walking was involved (I guess we should have done more research ahead of time lol)!
Our trek to the Alhambra was almost two miles straight uphill - yes, TWO MILES. UPHILL! Now, we are all here for a good hike to a cool destination (like the Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama in Kyoto, Japan), but I think we underestimated the time it would take given how close our AirBnB was. While we had a great view, the entrance was on the complete other side (LOL). We were definitely not prepared for that walk, and we narrowly made it to the entrance right in time for our timed entry slot. We were practically running by the end- we couldn’t fumble this!!!
So, if you're planning your own visit, give yourself plenty of extra time to get up the hill as they seem strict on the timed entry!
A Celiac Lesson Learned the Hard Way
We also made a small mistake when planning our day at the Alhambra: we didn't eat a full lunch beforehand.
We assumed we'd be able to find something to eat during the day, but with Celiac disease, that's not always something you can count on - especially when you're spending the majority of the day exploring a massive historic site with limited safe options.
Luckily, we had planned ahead enough to carry backup food with us, or rather for me LOL. We had leftovers from Chok, including those yummy but small croissant sandwiches, along with certified GF snacks I had brought in my bags. We were able to stretch that food throughout the day and keep ourselves fueled while exploring, but it definitely wasn’t ideal.
This is definitely something I recommend to anyone traveling with Celiac disease: bring safe food with you when spending the day at a major attraction! If anyone questions your food don’t forget this is a medically necessary diet for a disability (celiac disease!). I’ve had very limited problems on this in historical sites and venues alike, but be mindful of where you are and dispose of your waste properly! No need to ruin it for the rest of us!
The Alhambra: WOW
We spent almost the entire day exploring the Alhambra grounds and WOW!
We absolutely loved the stunning architecture and the fascinating history of the Moorish influence and Al-Andalus. There was so much to see that we were glad we had essentially given ourselves the entire day to explore this incredibly fascinating and historic sight. The architecture alone was incredible, but learning more about the history of the site made the experience even more special. The Alhambra was so large, it really needs a full day to truly immerse yourself in the beauty of it all.
By the time we eventually descended from the hill, we were exhausted—and very ready for a bite... ok not really a bite after this long day, more like a real dinner!
Back to La Nonna Carmella
We stopped back at our Airbnb to rest our feet before heading back out for dinner.
We originally attempted to try a local fish restaurant, El Pescaíto de Carmela, that was dedicated gluten free sister restaurant to La Nonna Carmella from the night before. The Carmella Grupo Gastronomic is a magical group of restaurants that are entirely gluten free. I must admit, in addition to being gluten free, I am also picky. Not the best combo. We went and sat down at this fish restaurant, and then the only item I personally was interested in was the vegetable paella but it came with eggplant (which makes my tongue itchy) mixed in. So, we tried a cod croquette and head back to our new go-to spot, La Nonna Carmella for another night of delicious, safe Italian. This time, we ordered a beet salad and wonderful gluten-free bolognese lasagna that we shared which was bubbling (with cheese) and spectacular.
Sometimes when you're traveling with dietary restrictions, finding a place where you already know you can safely enjoy a meal makes the decision easy, especially when you’re picky as is - special thank you to Ethan for pivoting and being spontaneous with me for all these dinners. It is so important to travel with flexible and supportive friends, family members, and partners who just get it. This really makes the difference especially after long tiring days exploring every inch of the Alhambra.
Our Last Night in Granada
After dinner, we spent our last night wandering around the city under the evening lights and doing some souvenir shopping. Granada was such a fun combination of history, architecture, food, and exploration. We loved simply walking through the city and taking in the unique and special culture of Granada.
Day 3: One Last Bakery Stop & Leaving Granada
The next morning, we grabbed breakfast at Candy's Cafe before heading to the train station - and of course, you guessed it, we got extra for the next leg of our trip.
After breakfast, it was time to board our train and head to our next destination… Malaga!
Granada ended up being such a memorable part of our Spain trip. The Alhambra was obviously a major highlight, but we also loved wandering the city's steep streets, discovering its history, and finding delicious gluten-free food along the way. I didn’t realize what a gluten-free heaven Granada was, and I can’t recommend adding this top to your Spain list especially if you’re traveling with celiac disease. The entire time, I truly felt like I was able to experience and enjoy Granada without feeling like Celiac disease meant we had to miss out or go hungry!
Celiac Safety & Travel Essentials for Granada
Bring Backup Food: Especially if you're spending an entire day at the Alhambra or another major attraction. Having safe snacks and food packed from a dedicated gluten-free bakery can make the whole day much less stressful. Lesson learned to bring even more next time ;)
Buy Extras When You Find Great GF Food: Stocking up on extra Chok or Candy’s Cafe treats from Seville / Granada saved us multiple times during long sight-seeing stretches and travel between cities.
Plan Meals Around Sightseeing: Time your day so you eat a solid meal before heading into large tourist sites where cross-contamination protocols or safe options are limited.
Wear Comfortable Shoes: Granada is hilly, the streets are steep and cobblestoned, and the walk up to the Alhambra is no joke! Plan extra time too
Always Advocate for Yourself: Communication and confirming safe kitchen procedures is so important when managing Celiac disease on the road. I highly recommend bringing a gluten free / celiac translation card to help!
Granada was absolutely worth the trip, and I can’t suggest Granda more highly for your next trip to Spain, especially to complete your trip to Andalusia.
Next stop: enjoying the beaches of Malaga, Spain!
